Here you can find some ideas how to mod your mk1 etc. Some of them are just 'bright ideas', some may be simple and easy to carry on, some may be even usefull. And because I am from Finland and we virtually have no Mk1 XR2's here, there will propably be also some info about parts that can be used from another vehicle.

If a set of lowering springs is not an option and you still want something else than regular, you can use Mk1 XR2 springs with 'base model' shocks. The ride height will still be XR2-like. But you should consider renewing the shocks too, even with standard ones because the new (?) and stiffer XR2 springs are not on their best with the original shocks after 300000 kilometers.

Mk2 has the same springs and shocks in the rear than the Mk1. But you can not use front shocks of an Mk2, at least not alone. In Mk2 front shock [the 'level' in the shock where the sping is attached] is a bit (20mm??) lower than in Mk1 shock. So if you use one of those, the nose will drop. But this shouldn't be a problem, because Mk1 shocks should still be available everywhere.

One of the easiest, cheapest (=0€) and obviously the most important mod for the suspension is to modify the tie rod brackets. You can find more on that in the beginning of the 2003 diary, so I won't waste time writing it here again.

The rear stabiliser bar from mk2 can be used in mk1 too. There are two thicknesses of them, 12 and 14mm. My '76 has 12mm. The Mk2 1.4 CVH I had for spares had a 17mm in it, it will propably fit just bolt-on, but not sure about that atm.

From various places in the web I've found out that there is really no use to make any kind of stabiliser bar to the front.

If for any reason you need to get the front a bit higher, you can do that by machining a little 'spacers' to the upper end of the shock absorber. Thickness should be 18.7 millimeters and the hole should be 12mm. Don't make it higher than 12-15 millimeters or the screw in the shock will not be enough. You need one/strut, and of course the strut has to be dismantled to install these. The same advice goes for mk2 too.

The 1.0 models aren't equiped with a brake servo? Mk2 servo's should fit Mk1 bolt-on. I think that the mk2 servo is bolted differently to the master cylinder, so you can't use the mk1 mcyl anymore. Mk2 servo's are a bit bigger, maybe more effective?

Mk2 XR2 servo and master cylinder (22.2mm, same as in Mk1 XR2) is a good combination if you live in the forest - like I do - and can't find Mk1 XR2 in catalogs.

The brake calipers of an vented Escort/Sierra almost the same than XR2. Not quite, but you can use them. NOTE!!! You _have_to_have_ the caliper hanger from a Fiesta, othervise _it_just_won't_work. The Sierra/Escort hanger doesn't take the caliper enough away from the center. Believe me on this one.

Escort 91 discs (239mm, vented) can be used with XR2 brakes. This is usefull specially if you want to get some 'race discs' and can't find any XR2 spec ones. You'll just have to put 3-4mm washers between the caliper hanger and the bearing carrier, since the offset of an Escort disc is 4mm different than Fiesta disc.

The XR2 rear cylinders are 19mm in diam, and if you can't find them, you'll find satisfying 19mm cylinders from a 76-82 (?) Taunus. If you think you need more, get Sierra 1.3/1.6 84-86 20.64mm cylinders. Both of them are fairly bolt-on, just the bolt holes need a slight modification.

Original

A breakerless ignition can be done simply by taking the whole distributor from a Escort 1.3 OHV 86-88. The 1.3 OHV model may be some strange s**t brought only to Finland? The ignitionmodule is included in the distributor, and only 3 wires have to be connected. One to the chassis, two to the ignitioncoil. Can't help you with the connections :-/ However you need to check that ne new dist fits with your intakemanifold.

Mk1 CVH

You can not use standard Fiesta mk2 / Escort CVH manifold (*) because of the difference in lower engine support.
(*)I don't know the word in english, but with manifold I here mean the 'better exhaust manifold made of steel, not cast iron'.
Waterpump from an Escort 80-85 gives much more room for the water hose and the alternator than any other model of CVH engine waterpumps. Use it, doesn't cost much and it's much better.

General

Lowering the engine for 20mm reduces body roll very much. Haven't done that yet, so can't tell. With a CVH engine there will be slight (?) problems after lowering it. The alternator will propably fit no more even as good as it does now. The other problem will be the camshaft pulley. It will most likely touch the engine mounting on the chassis. Well, we'll see about that next spring. (That be'ing the spring '04)

The 2-part driveshafts from a Mk2 CVH can't be used, they are a bit different length. It would require moving the engine/gearbox more to the right, and that ain't possible very easily.

In 9/80 (??) they changed the bores of the gearbox/inner CV joint, so you have to know what you are buying if you need something in there. If you need to use wrong kind of driveshafts or gearbox, you can change the differential inside the gearbox to suit your needs. Check Diary 2002, date 16.2

The trunk door of the Mk1 is well known for it's tendency of rusting. It's getting impossible to get a decent one as second hand, but if the optical difference doesn't matter, you can use the trunk door from a Mk2. It will fit just bolt-on.

Mk2 rearlights will fit also bolt-on. The wiring has to be modified, the Mk2 lights are connected somewhat 'vice versa' compared to Mk1. Can't help you on that, did it sometime 96..

If making an XR2 look, you might use Golf 2 front direction indicators if you cant get the real ones. You might also use the wheel arch extensions made of plastic from a Golf or a Polo. Don't know that, just a thought..

Other Ford's steering wheels will propably _not_ fit. (Update: only some old Capri model has the same fitting of steering wheel)

Mk2 doorpanels will fit bolt-on.

Almost all Ford front seats are interchangeable. Don't know about the 90's cars, but in the olders at least. If you are installing heated seats from another Ford, note that they are meant to work with only 6 volts per heating element, so do the connections correctly!

Modifying an auto choke -> manual choke is easy. Check out my short DIY on that.

A 'universal' air filter box for a carburettor is also a piece of cake. This is the one in my 1.1S